New Purchases - A. Ente, Coche-Dury, DRC, Jacky Truchot, Roumier and Selosse
19/05/2025
I am pleased to offer some very rare and hard to find bottles of Burgundy, Champagne & Rhone - from both mature and modern vintages:
Red Burgundy
1 x Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru 1976
£900 per bt Duty paid
No tasting notes.
1 x Comte Liger-Belair La Romanee 2007
£3,000 per bt In Bond
96/100 John Gilman:'The 2007 La Romanée from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is starting to really drink beautifully at age twelve, wafting from the glass in a glorious aromatic blend of raspberries, beetroot, blood orange, exotic spice tones, kaleidoscopic minerality, fresh nutmeg, roses, a touch of lavender and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, tangy and nicely sappy at the core, with great focus and grip, lovely acids and a very, very long, complex and meltingly tannic finish. This is one vintage of La Romanée that it is emphatically not a crime to be drinking in its relative youth!'
1 x Comte Liger-Belair Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Reignots 2009
£1,500 per bt In Bond
96/100 Neal Martin:'Tasted at the Comte Liger-Belair vertical at the Château de Vosne. The 2009 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots has a divine bouquet, beautifully defined with precise red cherries, blood orange, wild strawberry and striking mineral scents that elevate this Aux Reignots above previous vintages. The palate is very precise and poised, very animated and tense, the oak seamlessly integrated. This is a class act, the one that really gets hold of this premier cru and exploits it to the full. This is wonderful.'
1 x DRC Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Petits Monts 2018
£4,800 per bt In Bond
91/100 Neal Martin:'The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er Cru expresses the growing season more than the terroir. Bulging with precocious Morello cherries and cassis on the nose, it can barely contain its youthful zeal and, for the Domaine, atypical decadence. The palate follows in a similar vein with saturated tannins, velvety red fruit, plump and sensuality. The purity is utterly seductive, but does not exude mineralité and terroir expression. Thoroughly enjoyable, yet it is not intellectual. But it does heighten intrigue, and I would love to taste the same cuvée in a cooler vintage since, to the best of my knowledge, we will see a few bottles released in the future. Good luck treasure hunting.'
1 x Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares 2007
£950 per bt In Bond
97/100 William Kelley:'One of the wines of the vintage, the 2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has shut down considerably in the last few years, and it's clear that this is one of the few 2007 red Burgundies truly built from the long haul. The wine unfurls in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of red and black cherries, peony, orange zest and woodsmoke that's far less extroverted and explosive than it was only four years ago. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tight-knit core, fine-grained structuring tannins and a long, stony finish. At this stage, the 2006 rendition is much more approachable, and I'd advise readers who own the 2007 to forget it for the better part of a decade.'
1 x Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares 2010
£1,250 per bt Duty Paid
98/100 John Gilman:'If there has even been a greater young vintage of Roumier Bonnes-Mares during Christophe’s tenure than the 2010 version, then I have not tasted it! The Roumier Bonnes-Mares is comprised of sixty percent terres blanches and forty percent terres rouges, which seems to really play up the elegance and floral side of the 2010 vintage. The stunning nose offers up a complex and sappy mélange of red and black cherries, red plums, cocoa, woodsmoke, pungent roses and violets, a brilliant base of soil and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with laser-like focus, haunting transparency, a rock solid and sappy core of fruit, and brilliant balance on the seamless, ripely tannic, endless and magically refined finish. A stunning, stunning bottle of young Bonnes-Mares.'
2 x Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares 2014 magnums
£3,000 per mag In Bond
95-97/100 Neal Martin:'The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a fragrant, floral bouquet with touches of blueberry, violet, wet limestone and effervescent blood orange. There is simply wonderful delineation here. The palate is very well structured, linear and strict in accordance with the vintage, driving acidity here maintaining the freshness with superb minerality on the finish. Oh yes. Yes. Yes. Yes.'
1 x Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 2020 Jeroboam
£1,950 per jero in OWC In Bond
97/100 Neal Martin:'The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is very succinct on the nose. It's beautifully defined, with hints of forest floor and black truffle percolating through the pure red fruit, crushed stone and light floral scents. Very precise and focused, the oak (again) is seamlessly integrated. The palate is fresh and vibrant right from the start, lively with fine, pliant tannins that lend this Grand Cru a sense of symmetry. Wonderful poise and freshness, a liberal sprinkling of white pepper on the finish, this is an outstanding contribution to the vintage. Bravo Laurent Lignier. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.'
1 x Jacky Truchot Charmes Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2004
£3,000 per bt In Bond
93/100 John Gilman:'In contrast to the understated Clos de la Roche, the 2004 Charmes is a rather powerful young vintage for this wine, as the old vines obviously did well during the adverse early season conditions. The bouquet is deep and primary, offering up notes of black cherries, plums, grilled meats, a bit of white pepper, dark chocolate, herb tones, soil and perhaps, a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and rock solid at the core, with substantial, ripe tannins, excellent acidity, and a very long, tangy and palate-staining finish. This is a fine, fine bottle in the making.'
1 x Jacky Truchot Morey St Denis 1er Cru Blanchards 2004
£1,500 per bt In Bond
90/100 John Gilman:'The 2004 Blanchards is another fine Truchot premier cru, and while it is a touch broader than the Clos Sorbés, it does not quite possess the nascent complexity of that wine. The bouquet is deep and pure, offering up notes of red berries, cherries, mustard seed, coffee, herbs and earth. On the palate the wine is medium-full, complex and balanced, with moderate tannins, sound acids, and good length on the fruit-driven finish. While there is plenty of terroir on display here, this is really a bit more of a fruit-forward wine than is customary chez Truchot. This is not to demean the wine, but for my palate, today it is the Clos Sorbés that really sings between these two Morey premier crus.'
1 x Jacques Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2008
£1,750 per bt In Bond
98/100 John Gilman:'All I can say is that if I made wine, this is the wine that I would dream of making! The 2008 Mugnier Musigny has also blossomed a bit over the last year and now is clearly another legend in the making, as it soars from the glass in a magnificent mélange of sappy cherries, blood orange, pomegranate, raw cocoa, profoundly complex soil tones, smoke and violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very, very, very complex, with a sappy core of fruit, a very soil-driven personality, tangy acids, ripe and even tannins and a flawless, nearly endless finish. Brilliant wine.'
12 x Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes 1996
£3,000 per case of 12 bt in Original Case In Bond
95/100 John Gilman:'The 1996 Volnay “Clos de Chênes” from Domaine Lafarge is a gorgeous wine in the making. The bouquet has blossomed beautifully, though the palate still will want a bit more patience to fully deliver generosity. Today, it is the nose that takes center stage, offering up a lovely blend of red and black cherries, dark chocolate, mustard seed, gamebird, a complex base of dark soil tones, woodsmoke and hints of the violets to come with further bottle age. On the palate the wine is young and superb, with a full-bodied and very well-balanced format, a fine core, ripe, seamless tannins and a long, nascently complex and tangy finish. I love the refined profile of this wine, which still needs further bottle age to really reach its plateau, but which is already showing its excellent potential without any caveats.'
White Burgundy
1 x Arnaud Ente Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2011
£650 per bt In Bond
91-93/100 Allen Meadows:'This is markedly more floral with lovely nuances of spiced pear and white peach. There is a textured and admirably concentrated mouth feel to the well-detailed middle weight flavors that exude plenty of dry extract on the lemony, dry and relatively austere finish. This is impeccably well-balanced and delivers strikingly good length. An excellent Referts.'
1 x Arnaud Ente Meursault 2014 magnum
£1,200 per mag In Bond
91/100 John Gilman:'The 2014 Meursault AC from Domaine Ente is really strong this year and shows the same cut and vibrancy on the backend as the stellar Aligoté. The bouquet is pure, focused and jumps from the glass in a blend of pear, tangerine, lemon zest, excellent minerality and a bit of Meursault nuttiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, long and full-bodied, with a nice sense of generosity on the attack, coupled with really fine cut and grip on the long and racy finish. This is a lovely villages that will really drink well with just a couple of years’ worth of bottle age.'
6 x Arnaud Ente Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain 2015
£650 per bt In Bond
91-93/100 Allen Meadows:'A hint of matchstick can be found on the apple, spiced tea and apple compote aromas. Once again there is a beguiling sense of energy to the delineated and more obviously mineral-inflected flavors that also possess a highly appealing mouth feel while delivering outstanding depth and length. This isn't quite as structured as the Referts but it will still need at least a few years of bottle age to unwind. Good stuff.'
6 x Benoit Ente Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru En La Richarde 2017
£200 per bt In Bond
91-94/100 Allen Meadows:'An even more elegant and airier nose is composed by lavender, acacia, mineral reduction and pink grapefruit nuances. The sleek, beautifully delineated and succulent medium weight flavors possess both good minerality and plenty of sappy dry extract, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and well-balanced finale. This classy effort should reward up to a decade of bottle aging.'
12 x Coche-Dury Meursault 2018
£6,600 per case of 12 bt in Original Case In Bond
92/100 Allen Meadows:'A perfumed and much more floral-suffused nose speaks of white peach, lemon rind and grilled nuts. The succulent, intense and stony middle weight flavors possess a taut muscularity before terminating in a bitter lemon suffused and bone-dry finish. This too is most impressive for its level and particularly for the outstanding depth.'
1 x Francois Raveneau Chablis Valmur 2010
£500 per bt In Bond
100/100 Antonio Galloni:'An utterly mesmerizing wine, the 2010 Chablis Valmur reaches dizzying heights of profoundness, with a stunning interplay of rich fruit and a host of more mineral, slightly reductive overtones that form a fabric of exquisite beauty. Time only does wonders for the 2010, a wine of simply extraordinary beauty, but its most satisfying moment arrives next to the embered tomato inside another tomato, where the explosion of aromas, flavors and textures is breathtaking.'
6 x Francois Raveneau Chablis Valmur 2014
£650 per bt In Bond
96/100 John Gilman:'The 2014 Valmur from the Raveneau family is much more reserved out of the blocks than the Blanchot, but also a bit deeper at the core and very soil-driven in personality this year. The classic nose wafts from the glass in a blend of apple, pear, very complex limestone soil tones, beeswax, dried flowers and lemon oil in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with classic transparency down to its minerality, bright acids and great focus and grip on the very, very long, youthful and racy finish.'
1 x Jean-Claude Bachelet Bienvenue Batard Montrachet 2022
£1,000 per bt In Bond
100/100 William Kelley:'I had high expectations for the 2022 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from the Bachelet brothers, but the wine in the glass surpassed them. This estate has been operating at a rarefied level for some time, with organic farming, the use of small caterpillar-tracked engines or horses instead of tractors, unhedged canopies in several climats and increasingly precise approaches to élevage and bottling; and those incremental refinements have coincided with a superb white Burgundy vintage to deliver one of the wines of the vintage. Unfurling in the glass with notes of orange zest, crisp Anjou pear and confit lemon mingled with white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of vanilla pod, it's full-bodied, immensely deep and complete, with a suave, satiny attack that segues into a core of pure, lively fruit, concluding with a long, resonant finish. It will be worth a special effort to track down even one of the 600 or so bottles produced.'
2 x Jean-Claude Bachelet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte 2022
£100 per bt In Bond
93/100 William Kelley:'The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte is seamless and elegant, offering up notes of white peach and sweet citrus oil mingled with hazelnuts and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, it's bright and complete, with a long, saline finish. As usual, it will offer a broad drinking window.'
1 x Roulot Meursault Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 1982
£600 per bt In Bond
No tasting notes.
Champagne
3 x Aurelien Suenen La Cocluette Blanc de Blancs 2017
£150 per bt In Bond
96+/100 John Gilman:'Aurélien Suenen’s 2017 version of la Cocluette, from his old vine parcel in Oiry, is utterly brilliant in this vintage. The bouquet is pure, precise and already stunningly complex, wafting from the glass in a mix of pear, apple, limestone minerality, fresh almond, white flowers, citrus zest, a gentle touch of buttery oak and the first hints of the smokiness to come informing the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and very, very complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, superb mineral undertow, elegant mousse and a racy, seamlessly balanced and beautifully precise finish. This will demand cellaring time to blossom, but it is going to be a legend for many decades to come.'
3 x Aurelien Suenen Le Mont Aigu Blanc de Blancs 2017
£180 per bt In Bond
96+/100 John Gilman:'Aurélien Suenen’s single vineyard bottling of le Mont-Aigu is also absolutely brilliant in the 2017 vintage. The bouquet is deep, complex and focused, delivering scents of pear, apple, an exotic touch of fresh apricot, a complex foundation of chalky minerality, hazelnut, incipient smokiness, buttery oak and a gentle floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, complex and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, fine soil inflection, a great spine of acid, refined mousse and stunning length and grip on the perfectly balanced, electric finish. Utterly stunning young wine!'
3 x Aurelien Suenen Les Robarts 2017
£175 per bt In Bond
97/100 John Gilman:'The lieu à dit of les Robarts straddles the border between Avize and Cramant, with Aurélien’s vines here lying right on the border, but still within the communal limits of Cramant. In my opinion, this is some of the most hallowed ground in all of the Côte des Blancs. His vines here were planted in three stages in 1984, 1978 and 1952. The 2017 les Robarts has turned out magically, offering up a stunning bouquet of golden delicious apples, pears, brioche, chalky minerality, buttery oak, white lilies and a hint of lavender in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp and shows off superb depth at the core, with fine mineral drive and focus, refined mousse and outstanding balance on the very, very long, very complex and utterly precise finish. Another tour de force single vineyard wine from Monsieur Suenen in 2017!'
12 x Aurelien Suenen C+C Blanc de Blancs NV
£75 per bt In Bond
93+/100 John Gilman:'The new release of Aurélien Suenen’s non-vintage bottling from his parcels in Cramant and Chouilly is from the base year of 2018. The vins clairs are barrel-fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged nine months in cask or foudre prior to bottling up for secondary fermentation. The wine was given three-plus years aging sur latte and disgorged in October of 2021; the finishing dosage this year was four grams per liter. The wine offers up a beautifully refined nose of golden delicious apple, pear, incipient notes of crème patissière, chalky minerality, fresh almond, brioche and a delicate topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and youthful, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and grip, impeccable mousse and a long, complex and seamlessly balanced finish. This is certainly approachable today, but still very much a young wine and I would not hesitate to tuck it away in the cellar for five to seven years before drinking it, just to allow it to completely blossom. It is a beautifully made wine with excellent potential.'
1 x Jacques Selosse Initial (Disgorged 2024) NV
£320 per bt In Bond
95/100 RobertParker.com:'The latest release of the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial, a cuvée that derives from the bottom part of the slopes mostly in Avize, Cramant and a bit of Oger, is based on the 2018 vintage with some 35% reserve wines from 2017 and 2016 and disgorged in June 2024 with two grams per liter dosage. Its relative generosity is informed by the mostly south-facing vines (with a minority facing east), and the topsoil here is less rich in clay and with more fragmented chalk bedrock compared to the higher-altitude parcels that produce Version Originale. Soaring from the glass with aromas of tangerine, beeswax and pear, it’s ample and demonstrative, balanced with vibrant acidity and chalky structuring extract bringing freshness to its rich core of fruit. When the tasting begins with such quality, there is no question you’re in the presence of genius.'
1 x Jacques Selosse Rose (Disgorged 2024) NV
£450 per bt In Bond
96/100 RobertParker.com:'The latest release of Selosse’s NV Brut Rosé, based on the 2018 vintage and disgorged in February 2024 with 2.5 grams per liter dosage, derives mostly from Avize and Cramant. Similarly to Initial, the sources for the Rosé are primarily the lower-altitude slopes. At its core, it is Chardonnay, complemented by about 3% Pinot Noir, sourced from the Egly family (aged in Selosse’s barrel), a historical exchange between the two growers. Guillaume told me that for the Rosé, they select barrels with more pronounced spicy character. Flamboyant and ample, the wine offers a deep bouquet of orange zest, cardamon, dried fruit and walnut. Laden with mouthwatering acidity and chalky structuring extract, it is one of the most characterful, complex rosés to be found in France.'
1 x Pierre Peters Chetillons 2015
£150 per bt In Bond
94/100 William Kelley:'Disgorged with five grams per liter dosage, the 2015 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons has turned out well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of freshly baked bread, crisp orchard fruit, clear honey, warm biscuits and dried white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and muscular, it's a deep, compact wine structured around racy acids and chalky extract. It's a strong effort, but it will demand a bit of patience to reveal all its potential. Péters was careful not to pick too soon, classifying 2015 along with 2011 and 2007 as years defined by an early harvest where it was nonetheless critical to avoid picking too early.'
Rhone
10 x Pierre Barge Cote Rotie 1988
£180 per bt In Bond
92/100 John Gilman:'The 1988 blended version of Côte-Rôtie from Gilles Barge and his father Pierre is a fine, old school example and was a bit reductive still when we first opened it and needed a good twenty minutes to fully blossom and show its true pedigree. Once open fully, the wine offers up a fine bouquet of cassis, spit-roasted venison, camphor, woods ash, a very complex base of soil tones, bonfire and a distinctive topnote of cloves. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully transparent, with a fine core of fruit, still just a whisper of backend tannin and excellent length and grip on the focused finish. This was the last vintage that the Barge family only produced a blended bottling of Côte-Rôtie and the 1988 is a fine bottle that is now fully mature, but has decades of life still ahead of it.'
3 x Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 2011
£250 per bt In Bond
93+/100 Josh Raynolds:'Opaque purple. Spicy, highly perfumed aromas of cassis, blueberry, candied violet and smoky minerals. Densely packed, fresh and delineated, oering energetic avors of black and blue fruits and oral pastilles. Shows a restrained sweetness on the nish, which features slowbuilding tannins and a strong echo of minerality. This wine was scheduled to be bottled about a week after I tasted it from its holding tank.'
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